Speaking of Apologies

My husband, Greg, lost his flight wings for his uniform. For him to get a new set, he had to write an apology to the company. They even had an apology form for him to fill out...

And then, there is my girlfriend who has had to sign, not one, but two, apologies for improper re-entry into Japan.

I really like the idea of written apologies. I have decided that I am going to type up "apology letters" for all of my family and friends to sign. It's really quite a good idea. That way folks can understand EXACTLY what I am mad about. No more guessing ... Did I forget her birthday? ... Is it our anniversary? ... Should I have had that last glass of wine?...

I think I see a dot.com start-up in all this ... www.apologies.com

DO NOT DISTURB OTHER PEOPLE SIGNS ON THE SUBWAY

"Masterpiece just becomes noise disturbance when heard without earphones."



"I silently hold my breath when I pass someone smoking."

NINE MINUTE TOUR OF JAPAN

http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=1_P4OvsW5mg&feature=related

The background music to this nine minute tour of Japan is Sakura, the very famous traditional Japanese song....if it gets stuck in the middle of the song, just move the "dot" a little....enjoy

Monkey Business in Shinjuku Station

http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=yx8Yi0VCYWE&feature=related

THE CONQUEST OF FUJI-SAN....or, who forgot to call the Sherpas???

Don’t believe everything you read on the internet….I know that I’ve learned my lesson. All of those stories featuring hordes of grandmothers, small children, and women in 4 inch high heels summiting Mt. Fuji are definitely urban legends… and, depending upon where you start your climb, four hours is not a realistic climb time. When we finally reached the crest, the “clothes de jour” were hiking boots and warm REI-type duds….It was very windy, wet, and cold, but needless to say, the exhilaration of being THERE, ON THE TOP OF MT. FUJI is an experience I will not ever forget. I recommend the experience very highly. I also have a few other recommendations if you want to survive and enjoy the climb.

Suggested requirements are:

1. Experienced mountain guide company (we used Fuji Mountain Guides www.fujimountainguides.com ). There were only 8 of us including our guide versus the HUGE tour groups that we pass on the way to the top. I don’t know how they can ever keep track of their people. For them, it has to be a bit like a kindergarten field trip – always counting their hikers and wondering if anyone is left in the bathroom.

2. Young, handsome, Japanese-speaking, American climbing guide that knows how to strike “epic” mountain guide poses - and is in such good shape that he can not only carry his own pack, but that of some un-named hiker. His motto covers it all: “Look good, and make sure you know where your people are.” He certainly does that. In addition, he is a superlative entertainer and provides us with the Mt. Fuji lore and legends along the way.

3. Proper gear. No high heels, no flip flops, no jeans. This is about comfort. The better your equipment, the more comfortable you will be. Yes, you may balk at buying hiking boots, rain gear, and a comfortable back pack but you will not regret it. Also, bring at least $100 (in Japanese Yen). The amenities get pricier as the altitude increases.

4. Train for the hike. Yes there are thousands of people that climb Mt. Fuji each summer but it is definitely not a walk in the park. Train for the “going down” part, not just the “going up” part. Be prepared for the possibility of altitude sickness. Canisters of oxygen are on sale at the base of the mountain…and bring ibuprofen. Keep properly hydrated and have some sort of electrolyte replacing drinks along the way.



………but now, let’s get to the nitty gritty details of the climb….


THE RENDEZVOUS:

It is 6:00 AM and I find myself sitting in the lobby of the fabulous Keio Plaza Hotel near Shinjuku Station feeling completely “out of costume.” I look as if I am starring in the movie “Heidi Does Tokyo.” It is easy to spot the other “mentally unstable,” excuse me, I mean “intrepid,” hikers that will join me for this grand adventure. They are not yodeling but they have that mountaineering look. They are, as follows:

Patty, from Seattle, WA, who was also my college room-mate. She climbed Mt. Ranier 25 years ago. She should know better.


















Anne and Audrey, my neighbors from Austin, TX. They are obviously in the midst of a mid-life crisis and trying to threaten their husbands and children ….”If things don’t change around here, well, I’m doing something drastic…I’ll go climb Mt. Fuji.”
























Jodie and Shelly from Australia. They are on a mother/daughter bonding expedition. Yes, tribulation does create closeness. The best part of their plan is the weekend at the Japanese hot springs that follows the climb.






















Paul, a Chinese fellow from Australia, who left his wife shopping in Tokyo while he climbs. It would strike fear in the hearts of most husbands to leave their wives shopping for an afternoon in Tokyo, much less two days. As it turns out, this was only a small measure of Paul’s “true grit” for he is the only male in our group - except for our guide....Does he deserve an award or what !!??





Brent, our professionally trained mountain guide, a young man in his twenties and a student at the University of Colorado in Boulder. Brent is the product of American missionaries. He grew up in Japan and is fluent in the language and customs. He is quite popular with the locals that are working in the mountain huts…and he has the savoir faire to handle our motley group of hikers.




THE TRAIN & BUS RIDE UP:


The ride to Gotemba, on one of those wonderfully comfortable Japanese trains, charged our emotional batteries for the coming climb…. On the train we could buy yummy bento boxes and a variety of drinks. Wow, this is great isn’t it??? From Gotemba, we climbed onto a bus for our starting point at the head of the Subashiri trail.

The Subashiri route is a less used path, traditionally taken by Japanese only – probably because all the signs are in Japanese? This enabled us to avoid the huge crowds found on the other routes.







THE BEGINNING: WALK SOFTLY, CARRYING A BIG STICK... AND EATING MUSHROOM SOUP




In the ever hospitable manner of the Japanese, we were greeted at the starting point of our climb by a little old woman that bowed and handed us cups of tasty mushroom broth. This was also where we bought our oxygen canisters. You folks that are used to living at higher altitudes may scoff at the use of oxygen, but remember, Tokyo is at sea level. The change in altitude can be a problem. Then we bought our “sticks.” For a small fee, one buys a walking stick with a bell tied at the top. Of course after about two hours of listening to those ringing bells, we are smiling insanely and stomping them to pieces….actually, there are shrines along the way… leaving a bell at a shrine allows one to avoid the insane stomping bit.





But back to the original purpose of the sticks….they are great hiking aids - but they are also your climb “record keeper.” At each rest station along the climb, the hiker has a brand burned into the stick to prove that they have actually reached that particular altitude of the climb. I buy two sticks, because I have two daughters, and besides I figure I can use the extra help…..Maybe I will give each of my daughters their stick when they have their first child…. I’m not sure they will appreciate the symbolism until then.

"FIGHT - DON'T GIVE UP" ... AND THROUGH THE TORII GATE:











Before any important endeavor, the very Japanese thing to do is to cheer one’s comrades on. We begin our hike with a shout of “Gumbaruzo!” (Fight- Don’t give up!) and answer with a cry of “Oooooh!” In Wizard of Oz style, we then follow the brick road to step through a Torii gate. I love the idea of the Torii gates. They are found at all Shinto shrines and are used for cleansing the spirit. There is a final Torii gate at the top of the mountain and, therefore, the climb of Fuji is really considered a spiritual pilgrimage. If that’s not spiritual enough for you, I imagine most folks invoke the mercy of God Almighty somewhere along the way.










AOKIGAHARA: THE HAUNTED OCEAN OF TREES

The first hours of our walk take us through an ancient forest. It felt a bit surreal, like one of those fairy tales where the travelers follow the path through the woods, only to be lost forever. Unfortunately, this is very close to the truth. If we would have been in a movie, this would have been where the sinister soundtrack would have begun to play.
In Japanese, the loosely translated name of the forest, Aokigahara, means “Ocean of Trees.” It is the prime spot for folks that want to “end it all.” They simply walk into the woods, never to be seen again. In addition to the legends of hauntings by Youkai (Japanese versions of monsters and ghosts), the magnetic iron deposits underground are rumored to cause compasses to spin wildly leaving travelers hopelessly lost. There is an annual search of the area for the bodies of suicide victims as well as the lost. In 2002, 78 bodies were found in the forest, beating out the previous record of 73 in 1998. Officials have also placed signs throughout the area urging potential suicide victims to seek help rather than end their lives. The bad part is, if they identify the body, a fine may be levied upon their family. Obviously, the area also draws a number of thrill seekers who leave “Hansel and Gretel” type trails of tape throughout the forest so that they can find their way back out. There is even a 2004 movie about the forest, called Jyukai – The Sea of Trees Behind Mt. Fuji (English Title). Sounds like a Halloween classic to me.


THE FIRST REST STOP






Making it to the first rest stop feels like quite an accomplishment. We have our sticks branded, and, we can buy water and snacks….and most importantly, we can pay 100 Yen to use the restroom. As we get higher in elevation, the prices of the amenities also go up, thus my recommendation to bring $$ along.




SPEAKING OF REST:

Our guide Brent taught us a great hiking tip, the Rest Step. This involves taking the easiest route up the mountain, not the most direct route. Zigzagging and small steps are easier on the legs. It is also advisable to completely straighten and lock the leg after each step. This gives relief to the part of the legs that are doing the step-up. I loved the Rest Step. In fact, “rest” soon becomes my favorite word. As we get higher and higher, I begin having flashbacks of my ancestors that had to travel over the American plains in wagon trains, and had to cross the Rocky Mountains on foot, and had to chase the buffalo, and had to tote that barge, and carry that water, and hoe that row and, because they did all of that, I could be here at this moment putting one foot in front of the other, trying to see if we in the computer age have retained some semblance of their toughness. I don't imagine they had little stores along the way selling bottles of beer for 735 Yen...

The only excitement to be had at the Rest of the Rest Stops is Jodie’s blister… and it is a big one. Brent, ever the competent guide, takes care of it with expertise. A blister under these circumstances can be very, very bad.








BUDDHIST HELL:

After the Sea of Trees, the terrain becomes volcanic – steep sides, very rocky and dusty with an occasional plant hanging on here and there. There are shrines along the way to commemorate some who have died on our trail. In winter, Mt. Fuji becomes quite treacherous. The snow you see on all those Mt. Fuji postcards is actually a sheet of ice. That’s why the safe climbing season is limited to July and August.











The sound track for this part of the movie would have to be those Buddhist monks that chant in very deep tones, and of course the chant goes on monotonously forever and ever. There are clouds above and below us so that it appears we are going nowhere and progress is an illusion.
Brent, cheers us on – “Only 20 more minutes to the next rest stop.” Of course by then, we know he is lying….only kidding Brent…. To distract us, Brent tells about the famous painting of Buddhist Hell. Ironically, it looks just like where we are, a rocky trail winding ever upward through the clouds, with no way down and no way up. I vaguely wonder if I will reach Enlightenment on this pilgrimage to Mt. Fuji, but mainly I wonder if I will make it to the next pay toilet. Maybe that is Enlightenment….recognizing that we are mostly ruled by the Tyranny of the Urgent.

















THE GREAT SHADOW OF MT. FUJI OVER THE FUJI-SAN HOTEL:




As the day comes to an end, the sun passes behind Fuji and we see the looming shadow of the top of the mountain. This is the hardest part of the climb for me. Someone with no sense of humor has built a series of very steep stone steps up to the Fuji-san Hotel. But, at least my cell phone works here. I call my husband to see if he’s collected my life insurance money yet. We’ll have a hot meal here and a few hours of sleep before waking at 1:30 AM to make the rush for the top, to beat the sunrise.



Brent fixes us a warm and tasty meal. I think it is rice and curry? Sorry Brent, my brain was gone by then. The sleeping quarters are interesting to say the least. They involve a room with platforms above and below. Let’s just call them giant “bunk beds.” On these bunk beds are laid out lovely sleeping bags and pillows, arranged together like sardines in a can – well they looked lovely to me then. We are put in a bunk that is supposed to hold 10 hikers. What a lucky break, there are only 8 of us. I’m trying to figure out where the other 2 would have fit. It is a bit like that childhood song of the “10 monkeys” in the bed – where they all roll over and one falls out.




It is at this rest station that many of the trails converge. We’ve not seen more than 10 other hikers all day but as the night passes we begin to hear some of those 10,000 people a day that try to climb Fuji. In other words, I don’t think we sleep a wink. Meanwhile most of the women in our group are suffering from altitude sickness or knee problems. It is determined that three of our group will stay at the Fuji-san hotel and wait for the rest of us to return from the top.





LITTLE LIGHTS EVERYWHERE ... AND THROUGH THE FINAL TORII GATE:
Outside is an eerie sight. There is a full moon partially obscured by drifting clouds. I have never walked through clouds before. The drops of moisture fly around my face. As the light from my headlamp reflects on the floating drops of water, it makes a bit of an optical illusion. There are people everywhere with head lamps – so we see little dots of light creeping in lines toward the top of Fuji. It is windy and very cold - and I am glad that it is too dark to see what is below me….I’m also glad I don’t find out till later that many people who die on Fuji are blown off the mountain by the strong winds.

I have little memory of the last push, except for passing through the final Torii gate. Halleluiah! I’m cleansed now! It seems quite easy but I’m sure we are buoyed by the exhilaration of reaching the final station.

































The sunrise is breathtaking. Brent gets the final brand on our sticks and mails postcards for us…yes, there is a Mt. Fuji post office. We have a wonderful breakfast of noodles and chat with fellow climbers. I spoke with a Japanese woman from Nagoya. This was her third try. She said her other girlfriends had not made it to the top. Ignorance is bliss….I just assumed that I would finish the climb. The final task is souvenir shopping. I love the Japanese attitude toward shopping – wherever you are, there’s something wonderful to buy. I decide small is better, since I will have to carry it down. I buy a commemorative key ring. As it turns out, that was a smart decision. Down turned out to be the hardest part of the climb for me …..


SKIING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN IN MY BOOTS ON VOLCANIC DUST ... WORSE THAN BUDDHIST HELL ... OR THE THREE STOOGES MEET FUJI-SAN:


OK. I’ll just give it to you straight. This part of the hike is not good for me. It is worse than Buddhist Hell. It is probably more like Catholic Hell.
I had broken my ankle the year before by rolling on rocky terrain. Therefore, I get VERY freaked out by this down movement (That’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it.) Although, when I am not freaked out, it is sort of fun and a bit like walking on clouds.
We are basically skiing through fine volcanic dust. The rest of my group seems to find the rhythm of it – and we even see some Japanese men RUNNING straight down the mountain –but, unfortunately, my legs don’t get it. There is another problem toward the bottom…I find my muscles have said "enough!". I am in no pain, but they just turn to jelly. I realize later that I did not drink my water and I did not drink my electrolyte powder as instructed. They are still in my pack when I reach the bottom. Consequently, the last hours are a monumental struggle. Sorry to my fellow hikers for any delay. We could have gotten to that McDonalds hamburger a half hour earlier, had my nerve not failed me. This is where having the right guide helps. I will never forget Brent’s mantra of “Slow and Steady Wins the Race,” but mostly I’m glad he takes my pack for the last part of the slide down. I am ready to throw it over the edge of the mountain and go down on my bum. Our other savior is Paul. We all begin having varing degrees of the “legs no workie” problem and Paul helps Patty down….after she, Anne, and Audrey trip on each other – or some such scenario. We are not exactly in the same league as the "Three Stooges" but close. I’m assuming that Jodie and Shelley now have a bonding experience to pass down through the generations of their family.

My last vivid memory of the climb is the look of fear on the faces of those hikers who are just starting up the mountain. As they pass us we are laughing hysterically, trying to keep from yelling “Turn Back, Turn Back While You Can!” And suddenly it all ends in a very civilized manner….with another cup of mushroom tea and a bow from the old woman to us, the pilgrims of Fuji-san.

Congratulations to my fellow climbers and my thanks to our guide, Brent. I have to say there was not a “whinger” among the group – I believe that’s Aussie for “whiner.”

GUMBARUZO !!!

Mt. Fuji Climb Update

The Mt. Fuji climb date is fast approaching....July 17 & 18

There will be a total of four(4)climbers representing the TexZen Blogsite. They are as follows:

Patty, my college room-mate, from Seattle, Wa. Patty is the only experienced climber in the group. She climbed Mt. Ranier about 30 years ago....she ought to know better.

Anne from Houston, Tx. Anne is a former neighbor. She was a nurse 30 years ago. We hope she will not need to bind our wounds. Anne has four kids and is therefore calm in all situations.

Audrey, another neighbor, from Austin, Tx...formerly from Chicago and first generation Lithuanian-American...we are trying to be politically correct and allow someone without a Texas accent to climb with us. Audrey will be providing the Texas flag for the photo shoot.

Barbara, the TexZen blogger...I hope my name is not mud when this is all over with.....I'm in charge of logistics and peanut butter sandwiches. I plan on bringing up the rear.

We will be leaving on a bus from Shinjuku Station...one of the busiest and wildest intersections in the world. This whole Fuji-san things is obviously some sort of mid-life crisis - I think my kids were hoping I would buy a red sports car instead.

Three things worse things than turning 50: Having a robot carry you around, having your waist measured at work, and being a Sumo Wrestler

The Japanese are one of the longest lived groups of people in the world. The Japanese men typically live a few years less than their wives - the men say that is because they have to live with Japanese women. Men everywhere probably say the same thing. The Japanese are also having fewer children and there is already a shortage of younger people to care for the aging population.

Several things are being done to address the declining population issue...the robotics industry in Japan is developing robots to care for the elderly and new health initiatives are being launched by the government.


















In addition, in an attempt to head off age related disorders and keep the older folks self-sufficient, Japanese employers are now measuring the waistlines of their employees. If the employee's waistline is outside of the accepted parameters, the employer (not the employee) can be fined by the government. Talk about pressure on the job! Even though, as far as I can tell, Japan is the land of the skinny, this still causes distress among workers. It probably explains the products that I see for sale in the pharmacy. There are all sorts of Jack Lalaine era "waistline reducing" sweat belts. There are also all sorts of herbal remedies which show the before and after waistline on the package. And, I just received a great brochure in the mail for a spa which seems to connect electrical devices to the waistline to zap the fat off. I think I'll try that one out.....

Now for the dichotomy. In Japanese society, if you happen to be a Sumo wrestler, you get to have a VERY big waistline...and a lot of status to go with it. Sumo wrestling matches take place during certain weeks of the year. They are busy eating and training during the rest of the year. It takes a lot of eating to maintain Sumo Size! I've been busy trying out all the food over here myself so I can identify with them.





A few weeks ago, I really needed someone to make me feel skinny for a change - who better than a Sumo wrestler!!! I had never been to Kokugikan, the Sumo wrestling ring, and wasn't quite sure how to find it. I took a train part way and then a taxi the rest of the way. The taxi driver immediately began asking about my favorite wrestlers...his was a European fellow called Baruto He also pointed out the restaurants where the wrestlers were chowing down before the matches.....

Ticket sales for the peons like me begin early in the morning. They have to be bought on site so it's first come, first serve. Of course I bought my ticket and went on in - not knowing that most people don't show up till later in the day when the top wrestlers begin their matches. But the good thing about being ignorant is that it gives one lots of room for being nosy and, if a person stumbles into the wrong place, they can just act dumb...so I decided to stumble around for a while....

The wrestling ring is set up like a square stadium with seats rising on all sides. The ring itself has a fancy canopy over the top with four giant tassels hanging in each of the four corners. The four corners depict the four directions ... and later during the matches the referee would refer to the winner by singing out the side he was standing on - Higashi (East) wins!!!




The best seats in the house are on the lower level, around the ring. This was one time when I was very glad to be in the upper level of "bad" seats. I had a nice comfortable, cushioned movie theater chair. The "good" seats were Japanese style - which means a cushion on the floor with no back. There were four cushions to a box -a box meaning four cushions surrounded by a little metal railing. Everyone in those seats had to sit "Indian-style" for hours. There is no room to stretch out your legs - just watching them made my knees hurt. They did get all sorts of perks - like drinks and food and bags of gifts - but it seemed to me that all that stuff gave them even less room for sitting.



Another bad thing about those "good" seats was that, once the wrestling started, a person could get squashed flat by flying Sumo wrestlers. The ring is slightly elevated and those 500 pounds guys would get thrown off into the crowd on a regular basis.

The first wrestlers up were the rookies. Only their mothers, girl friends, and buddies were there to cheer them on....but it did give me a chance to see, close up, what this was all about.



When a match starts, the two wrestlers climb up into the ring. They throw salt around to purify the ring. Of course, everyone has their special "salt-throwing" technique ... and there's always a salt-throwing show-off. Then they do some elaborate stomping exercises to squash any bad spirits. There are no bad spirits left after a Sumo stomps. In fact, there's nothing left after a Sumo stomps. The third ritual is to sip water. That is for purifying their bodies. All of these preparations build up to what is usually a very brief match. The two wrestlers charge each other like bulls. It becomes quickly apparent why they've got all that extra blubber. It protects their organs from the ferocious tackles. Once they engage, it is quite apparent that the Sumo wrestler is not all fat. Their legs are absolutely HUGE muscles. Their leg muscles are so huge that they are not able to walk like a regular person. They have one of those bow-legged, gun-fighter type waddles. Anyway, in under a minute, one of these giants has tossed or pushed the other down or out of the ring. I thought it would be quite boring but I found myself screaming along with everyone else.












SUMO FASHION SENSE





Sumo wrestlers have all sorts of perks. They have their own hairdressers to make sure their "topknots" are just so. They also get to wear really fancy "aprons" during their ceremonial entrances and exits. These aprons cost at least 2 million yen each - that's about $20,000 in US dollars. That price does not include the cost of the diamonds, pearls and other precious gems that are embroidered into the fabric with gold and silver thread. I LOVE the aprons. The designs and symbols are all quite colorful and wild. They range from attacking tigers to giant flowers, to tsunami waves.




The judges for the bouts sit on all four sides of the ring. They are dressed in basic black outfits....the male version of the kimono. My favorite person was the referee type person who introduced the wrestlers and helped to sing out the winner. These guys had fabulous silk outfits and great fans...by fans I don't mean spectators, I mean "fan your face when you're hot" fans. The fabric of their outfits had wild, huge geometric patterns, lots of giant polka-dots. These guys really belonged on a fashion runway. I want clothes out of their fabrics....someone, somewhere needs to design a line of clothes styled after the Sumo Season.










HOW DOES A SUMO WRESTLER GET FAT ON SOUP? ..... AND WATCH OUT FOR THE BEANS



When the crowds were not watching the wrestling bouts, they could sample the genuine Sumo Chanko soup. I decided it was a lunch that I could not pass up. Everyone sat together on long tables with metal chairs...just like in your old high school cafeteria. Each person received a bowl of the traditional stew eaten by the Sumo to build strength. Basically, it was a cabbage, vegetable soup with a small fatty piece of pork or chicken with skin. It was delicious. After that, if you're still hungry, there are stalls selling Sumo shaped chocolates... or bean-jam filled wafers shaped like the referee's fan....While we're talking about bean-jam, be warned. A lot of the dishes in Japan that look like they have chocolate in them actually are made with beans...those chocolate looking things in your ice cream are often beans ....